THE SPIRIT OF TAOS

What gambling is to Las Vegas, art is to Taos. Located in northern New Mexico, a two and a half hour drive from Albuquerque, (or a ten and a half hour drive from Dallas) this funky town has its own distinctive color palette. A wash of blue skies–300 days of sunshine practically guaranteed every year–greenish sage, terra cotta adobe and sunset pink; it’s no wonder artists have flocked here for more than a century. Taos began as an art colony when a pair of painters traveling in the area had a small accident. A wooden wheel broke, the men tossed a $3 gold coin to see who would stay behind to watch the wagon and who would go to get it fixed. Ernest Blumenschein walked to town that day in 1898 and was so intrigued by the scenery and clear light that he and Bert Geer Phillips came back, spread the word, and ultimately founded the Taos Society of Artists. Today, 1000 artists of every description make their home here.

Eyes do tend to widen at the first sight of majestic Taos Mountain. It’s imbued with hints of mysticism, some irresistible magnetic force that pulls the creative and their like to this spot. Other locals are a multiracial mix of entrepreneurs, free spirits, celebrities(Julia Roberts, Val Kilmer), retirees, the highly-educated-turned-blue-collars and those “who have just missed too many trains.” Architects’ masterpieces stand cheek by jowl with ramshackle cabins with a rusting truck or two in front yards. Forget status consciousness here; think crystal healing, yoga, meditation, spiritualism. Typical of the Taos mindset are “Earthships”–buildings made from recycled scrap tires, aluminum cans, bottles and cardboard. These other wordly places are open seven days a week for tours and some may be rented as lodgings.

Art galleries are everywhere and their products vary in price range and quality. Gallery A is high-end, shows contemporary cutting-edge work including dolls and sculpture, the Fenix is hot, the Lumina is one of the city’s best and adjoins a sculpture park. For typical Southwestern jewelry, it’s the Dearing Gallery; the Blue Rain specializes in Contemporary Native American art but is not for a modest budget; a clay pot on display had a price tag of $85,000. More moderate prices are easily found, and there is an “Art Walk” every other Saturday during which artists are on hand, the galleries stay open late and refreshments are served.

There’s more than art to occupy one’s time here. The Pueblo village is one of the principal Taos drawing cards. The clusters of two-story adobe dwellings house the Native Americans (also known as the Pueblo Indians) who live as they have for 800 years, without electricity or plumbing. They sell handmade goods in their many shops, practice ancient rituals, worship and hold their traditional dances. There is an entrance fee of ten dollars per person per visit, but it is best to check beforehand to ascertain that the Pueblo is open to the public. Sometimes there are religious restrictions that prohibit visitors. Archeological evidence indicates that Taos is the oldest populated city in the United States, with human habitation going back to 3000 BC. It was in the middle of the sixteenth century, however, that the first Europeans arrived. The Spanish settlers were attracted by the Rio Grande and the timber of the valley. During following centuries, upheavals and rebellions decreased the population because of attacks by Plains Indians but by the early 1800’s, Taos had become headquarters for the many mountain men who hunted and trapped here. One of the them, Kit Carson, is its most famous former resident, and a small museum is devoted to his life. Also of particular interest is the late Millicent Rogers, Taos “fashion icon” and local benefactor, brought to town in 1947 by her actress friend, Janet Gaynor. Her legacy: innovative jewelry designs(turquoise, coral,silver, oyster shell) and a comprehensive collection of Native American and Hispanic art. One of the town’s best gift shops is found in her museum.

There’s a different aesthetic experience in watching the famed Taos sunset, best observed from the Rio Grande Bridge, the lightest suspension bridge in North America. It’s the length of four football fields, and every so often, one can spot one of the golden eagles that regularly fly over it. Rattlers live in the rocks below and created problems when the bridge was built in 1965, but seem to keep their distance these days, a comforting fact for hikers. Hiking is popular in Taos, and llama treks are available any time of year. Those docile animals will carry gear and walk at the end of a leash, but not exactly like Fido. A guide walks ahead or behind the llama parade and there you go, hiking the trail, being very nice to the animal, which does not wag it’s tail or–hopefully–spit at you. More athletic activities include whitewater rafting, golf, and fishing.

Taos has an altitude of almost 7,000 feet, closer to 10,000 at Ski Valley, a twenty-minute ear-popping drive up the mountain. Nights are cool year round and even in luxury accommodations air-conditioners rare. For some, the altitude may require some adjustment; because the air is dry, the body loses moisture and drinking water often is recommended.

For more sociable imbibing, there’s local beer at Eske’s Brewery, Riesling at LaChiarapada Winery, frozen Margaritas at the Chile Connection or Gruet, considered excellent Taos “champagne”. Gourmet dinners can be found at a variety of local restaurants, most notably, the Stakeout, which may sound like a prosaic grill, but offers an imaginative menu and a fine-dining experience. The Villa Fontana is also a good bet, especially for lovers of mushrooms, which are featured in many dishes.

B&B’s are the way to sleep in Taos. One can not say enough about their diversity, hospitality and the culinary creativity of their hosts. Breakfast can be anything from Ranchos Huevos to fresh-baked apple and cinnamon bread to exotic sausages. Rooms with mountain views, kiva fireplaces, and hot tubs are not uncommon. Highly recommended are Alma del Monte (Elizabeth Taylor stays here) or the Casa de las Chimeneas, the first Taos B&B to get an AAA Four-diamond rating. Others range from stunning to so-so, and prices go from about $100 to $500 a night, depending on the time of year.

WHERE TO STAY: CASA DE LAS CHIMENEAS–505-758-4777; ALMA DEL MONTE–505-776-2721; THE LITTLE TREE BED AND BREAKFAST–800-334-8467

RESTAURANTS: STAKEOUT, 505-758-2042; VILLA FONTANA, 505-758-5800; TIM’S CHILE CONNECTION, 505-776-8787; ESKE’S BREWERY, 505-758-1517

TAOS TOURIST INFO: 800-732-8267 or www.taoschamber.com